The reason we spent 2 nights in Castellammare del Golfo, rather than swinging straight past and on to Trapani, is that buried somewhere in all the holiday research done, there was an article about the creation of the first nature reserve in Sicily. In 1989 a large, peaceful protest (please note no one threw soup at anything or glued themselves to the road), took place, with thousands of Sicilians demanding that a swathe of coastal land be preserved for the benefit of nature and the enjoyment of all. They were successful and the Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve was created which according to all reports possesses a stunning coastal trail. The map (see below) classified it as easy – not to be confused with the Central Trail (moderate) or the High Trail (difficult for experienced hikers only).

Please note green coastal path has the grading of facile

I think the phrase that sprang to my mind about half an hour into our walk was “Facile, my arse!” It was 3 and a half kilometres, which made the sweaty climb at Segestra feel like a Sunday lunchtime stroll to the pub. I did a passable impression of an mountain goat as I scrambled up & down the coastal path, way too focussed on keeping my footing and minding the edge, to really give the spectacular scenery the attention it deserved. Only when stopping to catch my breath and wipe the sweat out of my eyes did I turn my eyes seaward and marvel at the view and the colour of the water. Catering, needless to say, was less than impressed having been sold an easy saunter to a stunning beach. We did eventually make it to one of the several stunning beaches, Cala Berretta, in case you’re remotely interested, where we had a lovely few hours, but always with the thought in the back of my mind that to get back to the car we had to do the whole thing again in reverse.

Quite high and quite close to the edge

Worth it (I think) for the crystal clear water & sea life

I am the dot in the middle, snorkelling

For the purposes of full disclosure, Catering & I occupy a house with no stairs (yes, technically a bungalow, I suppose) so vertical ascents & descents are not something we undertake on a regular basis. The upshot was that our ankles and knees, unused to this level of activity, took their revenge over the next day or so. Don’t worry I said, Trapani is largely flat, we’ll be fine once we get there, little did I know.